Moya

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Moya Climbing Crag

Moya is one of the most complete climbing areas in Gran Canaria, with several sectors, a broad spread of grades and enough variety to keep different types of climbers interested. It is a crag where you can find easier routes, mid-grade mileage and some harder lines, all within an area that feels more extensive and diverse than it may first appear.

If you want to get more out of the area without wasting time figuring everything out on your own, you can climb Moya in Gran Canaria with a local guide. That can be especially useful here because the crag has several sectors, route grades that are sometimes debated and enough options to make local judgement genuinely valuable.

Many of the original route grades in Moya are disputed, so the grades shown here reflect what most climbers currently believe they are. They may not always match what is written on the wall, but the difference is usually only half a grade up or down. When in doubt, the route lines and start references are generally clear enough to keep things straightforward.

Climbing sectors in Moya, Gran Canaria

Paraiso Sector

Paraiso is one of the main reference sectors in Moya, with several sub-areas and a route spread that already shows how broad this crag can be. It combines short, varied walls with harder lines and enough options to build a full session around this part of the area alone.

Paraiso sector routes in Moya
1.- Nos trasladamus6c
2.- Guarapo7b
3.- La alpispa6b+
4.- El chorrillo7a
1.- Cuando tu vas yo vengoIV
2.- El trompo6a
1.- El sicario6c
2.- Vaya negra de baile6b+
3.- El chauchau de la piva6b
Entrance wall at Paraiso sector, Moya
1.- ?V
2.- Agárrate a la tabaiba6a
3.- Pico6c
4.- Bonita7c
5.- Queso tierno6a
6.- Romocop7a
7.- Oposición a canarión7a+
8.- El chillio del águila6b

Solajero Sector

Solajero is one of the most practical sectors in Moya for climbers looking for a concentrated wall with a good number of routes close together. It offers several enjoyable mid grades and a few harder routes that make it a useful stop during a longer day at the crag.

The chain hanging in the middle of the wall is the best visual reference for counting the routes from this topo.

1.- Nobleza de taladro waki6a
2.- Para Pepín pon pan6b
3.- Uno pa ca’ uno6b
4.- El espolón6b+
5.- Los tres cerditos7b
6.- Super Yupy7a+There is a chain hanging from a low bolt
7.- Rolling Stones7b+
8.- Mejor ven por la tarde7a
9.- La cabeza del martillo6c
10.- Surfero forestal7a+
11.- Parra salvaje7a
12.- ?6a

Nogalito Sector

Nogalito adds another compact wall to the overall Moya area, with mostly mid grades and a route style that fits well with climbers who want to keep mileage high without moving too far away.

Nogalito sector routes in Moya
1.- Carrera de lapas6b+
2.- Bajo en batería6b+
3.- Estercolera6b+
4.- Vaya cante de canto6c
5.- Lagartija mutante7a+
6.- Endemismo7b
7.- Esternocleidomastoideo6b
8.- Macarrones6a

Cantonera Chica

Cantonera Chica is one of the more useful sectors for a long session in Moya, with many short routes, several mid grades and clear equipment notes that make it easier to plan what you want to do.

1.- Te lo dije y no lo sacaste6c+3 quickdraws, chain with biner
2.- Lágrimas del barranco7b+/c2 draws + 1 bolt with a biner
3.- ?6?2 draws, chain with biner
4.- ?6?2 draws, chain with biner
5.- Operate Lolo / Variant 1 / Variant 26a+ / 6b+ / 7?4 draws, chain with biner
6.- Trilogía6a4 draws, chain with biner
7.- Ser valiente da miedo6a+4 draws, chain with biner
8.- Oro parece, platano es6b6 draws, chain with biner
9.- Pico pato asesinoV+3 draws, bolt + ring
10.- El agujeroV+3 draws, chain with biner
11.- ?6c3 draws, chain with biner
12.- ?6c3 draws, chain with biner
13.- A quien debo darle las gracias6b+5 draws, chain with biner

Cantonera Grande

Cantonera Grande rounds out the Moya area with another substantial wall, mixing lower grades, several moderate routes and a few harder lines. Together with the rest of the sectors, it helps explain why Moya feels like one of the broader sport climbing areas in Gran Canaria.

Cantonera Grande sector routes in Moya
1.- ?6a3 quickdraws, ring
2.- El clavo6a4 draws + chain with biner
3.- Miguel Tomás6b5 draws, chain with 2 biners
4.- Cerniquiqui6a4 draws, chain with biner
5.- El cuarto de los chiquillosIV4 draws, chain with biner
6.- La claca del guanche6a
7.- Tepuis caerV
8.- Instinto animal6b
9.- La cosita8?
10.- ?7b
11.- El pollo belgicano6b
12.- Kalima bloque6a
13.- Arretrodescan6a+
14.- Medio día de gloria / Variant 17a / 6c
15.- Invierte que divierte6b+
16.- BalúIV
17.- El guerrero del descuelgueV
18.- Lo primero cuidar el agujero6a+
19.- Ahí la tienes con 15 años6b
20.- Trabaja la raja6b+
21.- El oso de pelucheIV

Bolting and development

The routes shown in these topos were established by many different climbers. Just a few of them include Roque, Lucas, Facundo, Manu, Tini and others.